Sunday, July 31, 2011

Dual XR4110 AM/FM USB/SD/3.5-mm Mechless Receiver (Gray)

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Technical Details For Dual XR4110 AM/FM USB/SD/3.5-mm Mechless Receiver (Gray)


  • Mechless AM/FM radio, MP3/WMA, USB, SD card receiver
  • Front panel USB and SD card slots with support for 16 GB devices/cards
  • 3.5-mm auxiliary input for connecting iPods or other external devices
  • 60 watts total power (4 x 15 watts) with a pair of 2V preamp outputs
  • One-year limited warranty

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Saturday, July 30, 2011

PYLE PLR24MPF AM/FM Receiver MP3 Playback with USB/SD/AUX-IN

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This Pyle head-unit is loaded with great features, including SD card playback. It will also play MP3s from a USB stick and has an aux-in jack conveniently located on the front so you can hook up your MP3 player or iPod. Of course, it’s also equipped with an AM/FM radio with tone control, last-track memory, and an LCD digital display. The cool blue screen shows clock info, the station, and your music’s ID3 tags. Easily navigate folders using the illuminated interface. This unit pumps out 100 watts on each of its two channels, so it’s not lacking for power. Outputs over stereo RCA. Includes screws and mounting hardware.


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Friday, July 29, 2011

Hands Free Phone Accessories For Your Car

Hands Free Phone Accessories For Your Car


There has been a steady rise in the use of cell phones in keen vehicles and due to the risk involved, restrictions have been put in place. Hands free phone accessories have flooded the market to counter the risk complex while driving. These devices include headsets and car-kits.

Hands free accessories reduces the distraction of talking on cell phones and laws on the restriction of cell phone use have come up. Use of hand-held phones while driving has been prohibited in some areas hence motorists with a cell phone which has hands free accessories are advantaged. Due to these laws, since one cannot dial a cell phone while driving, the motorist will want a cell phone, which supports voice activation Headsets that do no cover the ears come in hardy when the law prohibits use of cell phones that cover the ears while bicycling or driving. One example of a hands free phone accessory that would be at par with the legal requirement of this law is a Bluetooth headset, which wraps over one ear.

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Some examples of hands free phone accessories are: a wireless Bluetooth headset, which was specifically designed as a compliment to handsets of high capability and standards. It comes with a faultless first-rate audio quality, an ergonomic form and an unbeatable battery time. There is the blue tooth hands-free car kit, which can be installed in any car although it is strongly advised to seek professional advice while installation. Due to the Bluetooth technology equipped, it connects with the driver's phone by creating a wireless hands-free. This absolutely raises the motorists relax and security level while driving.


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The wireless Lcd hands free Bluetooth speakerphone enables a motorist to pick their calls safely and legally in the car. It has a wide blue Lcd that displays the caller's amount and the buttons for receiving and ending calls are easy to reach as well as prominent. It comes with a rechargeable battery, a recharging cable and an elective earphone. Music muffs are someone else example of hands free phone accessories for a car. They are ordinarily qualified with attached headphones to make it easier when plugging them into the gadget. They are quiet comfortable and keep ears warm.

Another example is the infrared wireless headphones, which allow the driver to listen to music or Tv programs without necessarily disturbing others. This wireless headphones are high-performance and they have an infrared transmitter which connects categorically to Vcr

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Thursday, July 28, 2011

Car Accessories

Car Accessories


Car accessories are basically add-on's which provide style and classiness to your car. However, apart from just adding style to your car, these car accessories are admittedly useful and functional as well. Some of the most basic car accessories include floor mats and carpets, seat covers, car covers, lights, exterior mirrors, cell phone holder, air freshener, etc. Apart from being useful car accessories; these accessories help you make your car unique and a town of attentiveness among your friends and while traveling on the road.

There is a wide range of useful car accessories ready in the market. You can admittedly buy the accessories of your option in order to add extra request for retrial to the appearance of your car in quite a inexpensive price range.

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Generally, there are two major categories of car accessories namely Interior Auto accessories and exterior car accessories. Air freshener, carpets, floor mats, seat covers, television, stereo theory and Dvd system, air bags, rear view mirror etc are all Interior Auto accessories. On the other hand, license plate, side bars, body panels, light covers, exterior lights, wheel covers, windshield wiper blades etc are all exterior car accessories. All these auto accessories if chosen determined and wisely add great charm to your car. Some useful accessories are just aimed at improving your car's allembracing appearance, whereas some provide great security to your car as well.


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Among discrete security car accessories, pet barrier is one which is used to keep animals in the back of the car. Similarly, cargo liners provide security to the trunk of the car from probable damages caused by cargo and other goods. First aid kit is also a very good security car accessory and is very useful especially on long routes. Roadside accident kit includes jumper cables, and security kit for car seat provides security to kids by production sure that these are determined fixed.

Furthermore, luggage containers at the roof of the car make it easier to carry cargo while going on a long route holiday trip.

A approved and classy stereo theory in the car makes it even more impressive among youngsters and music lovers. Moreover, it also makes driving even more thrilling and fun loving.
Floor mats and carpets help protect the base of the car from dirt and filth which may be carried along within the shoes. Likewise, the seat covers also provide security against garbage and any accidentally spilled liquid of food leftovers.

No matter what auto accessories you pick for your car, you must make sure that you buy the ones that you needs most, and furthermore, should always buy the best inherent capability stock as well. You should make a list of all the accessories that you like to have in your car. After that you can prioritize the accessories which you need to install first in case you have a minuscule budget. Thereon, you can buy the rest of the accessories with the duct of time. It is advisable to buy the car accessories that provide security and ease to your car followed by the fun accessories.

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Wednesday, July 27, 2011

How to install an Amp

How to install an Amp


How to install an Amplifier:

1.) Disconnect the battery terminals: Just be safe. Do this.

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2.) Run the power cable from the battery to the location of the amp or distribution block. (To read more about running wires, click here)


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If you run it through any sort of sheet metal, be sure to protect the power cable with a rubber grommet, or some other protective device.

Be sure you have fullness of slack at both ends of the cable. This will make your life easier, trust me!

Be sure you run the power cable away from any Rca cables. I ordinarily run the power cable down the side of the car that the battery is installed on, and run the Rca cables down the center of the vehicle.

Once the cable has been run and secured, leave it alone for the time being. Don't hook it up, cut it or do whatever else with it!

Be sure the power cable is secured with wire ties or some other means, But! Not until you have run the cable, and carefully that the cable is going to work out where it is located.

3.) Find a favorable ground point close to the amplifier

This point should attach to the vehicle's chassis, and be a solid connection.

Run your ground cable from the amp (or distro block).

Just like with the power cable, this wire should be secured and protected. It should not be installed in a location that will distress it.

Use a piece of sandpaper to remove any paint or conclude from your ground point. Use it to also sand away any rust or residue on your ground point. You want a good solid connection, so you'll want to see nice shiny metal.

Prepare an appropriately sized ring terminal

If your ground cable is going to be attached with a ring terminal (the most recommended means), attach it now. Remember! Do a good job here. We're finding for a strong, solid electrical connection. If you can use solder, I would advise it!

Use a washer when attaching your ring terminal to your vehicle's chassis.

Finally, cover the ground point with something non-conductive. Also, Find some spray paint or conclude that will protect your ground point from rust.

4.) Be sure to run Rca cables and the remote turn on!

Pull your head unit out of its mounting location.

If it's not already hooked up, hook up your remote turn-on wire to the head unit's wiring harness.

Determine which Rca cables will go to each channel on your amp(s). I find it beneficial to have a 4-channel cable and an further 2-channel cable for your subwoofers. This makes it easier to run all of the wires at once.

Run your Rcas and remote turn-on. Keep the Rca cables away from any sort of power cable, especially the power cable for your amp(s). It's Ok to run the remote turn-on wire with the Rcas.

Make sure all cables are secured and not installed in a way that will distress them. Be sure they aren't pinched, scraped or kinked while any sort of driving activity. In any places where they'll need protection, be sure to cover them with a tough material.

5.) Run all of your speaker wires.

Now it's time to run more wires! Run speaker wires from your speakers to your amp's facility location.

Just like with all of the different wires above, be sure they are secured and protected.

6.) Hook up all of the wires at the amplifier!

Hook up the Rcas, speaker cables, remote turn on, power then ground.

7.) Hook up a fuse owner near the battery.

Be sure you have this piece of tool (and a fuse) before you even exertion to hook your amp up to your vehicle's electrical system. Seriously!

The fuse owner Must be within 18" of the battery.

Be sure the fuse owner is associated solidly to the power wire.

Be sure you have the right sized fuse!

Be sure the fuse owner is mounted in a safe place, and the power wires are all secured away from any engaging parts.

8.) Hook up any special battery terminals

If you have any fancy-schmancy battery terminals, now is the time to be sure they're associated properly. Be sure they are obtain and protected. Hook up any other of your vehicle's cables to the battery. If you can get covers for your new battery terminals, I would advise them.

9.) Reconnect the battery.

Put your shiny new terminals on those battery posts!

10.) Test!

Before turning your theory on, turn the amplifier gains all the way down. Turn on your theory and listen. Does everything work? How much noise do you hear? Is there audible distortion (If so, don't listen for long!) If everything's square, move on to the next step!

11.) Permanately Mount your amplifier

I hope that before you have gone through the former nine steps, you have concept about how your amp fits into your system, and how you plan to install it. If not, I Beg Of You to think about this first. Figure out where you want your amp, how you'll get power to it, and what (if any) components will be installed near it. Also, don't be a fool! Be sure you've budgeted so you can nothing else but afford everything you need for your amp to be installed Flawlessly. Taking just a small whole of time to think about this stuff will pay off for a level install, and great sound. If you don't plan, you will screw it up.

When you mount your amp, you'll want to be sure you are protecting it from any sort of corporal damage and heat. Car amps are tough, but you need to be sure that you are installing it in a way that protects your amp from these hazards.

Soooooo, to protect your amp from corporal damage (because they are ordinarily installed in places where they are prone to damage such as in the trunk or under the seats), it is best to build some sort of enclosure for it. This enclosure should be big enough to comprise the amp (and maybe some fans), as well as the proper wiring. You will also want to be able to nothing else but entrance the controls. If you nothing else but like to tweak your system, you might want to make your amp rack nothing else but removable, but also keep theft in mind. Be creative on how to protect it. The truth is, you can get nothing else but fancy here, or just do something quick. Both will work.

Another thing to keep in mind when building an enclosure for an amp or mounting the amp in a place that is hot or has poor airflow is that the amp will get Hot. Heat damages electronics, so you should Figure out a way to keep your amp cool and happy. Use fans, or even redirect the air conditioner!

One last thing about amps: I have found that if your amp is mounted to metal, it is sometimes prone to noise. I advise mounting your amp to a piece of wood before installing it. This will forestall any sort or weird ground loop effects that introduce noise to your music.

12.) Tweak!

Now that you've installed your amp(s), you're pretty excited to get rollin. Step 1: Be sure all of the amp's gains are down, the bass boost is off, and the crossovers are set to the strict frequency band.

Get one of your beloved Cds, preferably one that is clean sounding. I have found classical and jazz to work great, but alternative and pop work as well. Try to avoid nothing else but loud or bass heavy music. If you must, try to use a more melodic Cd: Not one that's just all bass, or noise, you know? The prominent thing is that the Cd is representative of what you ordinarily listen to, because it's Your system, and it's Your music. Darn tootin!

Step 2: Power on!

Step 3: Turn your head units controls to neutral. Eqs off, loudness off, fade and balance centered.

Step 4: Turn the volume up until you hear distortion (you know it when you hear it, and go on to step 5), or the volume control is all the way up. (go to step 6)

Step 5: If you hear distortion, back the volume up until no more distortion is heard. At this point, you know how loud your theory is gonna go before it starts distorting, sounding horrible, and smoking speakers. (Move on to step 7, and lower your volume!)

Step 6: If your head unit goes all the way up, and doesn't distort, you have a good unit that your amp can handle. Go to your amp, and while the music is playing, moderately turn up the gains. Once you hear distortion, back off a little. Turn your head unit's volume down!

Step 7: Now go to your head unit. Set all of the eq, loudness, crossover controls, and dsp that you want. Repeat steps 4-6 with all of these controls set to how you want them.

Step 8: Set all of your amp's bass boost or other controls to how you want them. Repeat steps 4-6 again.

Step 9: Once everything sounds good, you're ready to put a cover on your amp enclosure, and be sure your fans are hooked up properly. Put it away and forget it!

Step 10: You're in business! Have fun, and don't wake up your neighbors!

How to install an Amp


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Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Car Audio Amplifier Info: Seriously all things You'll Ever Need To Know

Car Audio Amplifier Info: Seriously all things You'll Ever Need To Know


Amp Smarts:

Amplifiers are devices that take a teeny tiny audio signal from a pre-amp, some power from your battery, and pass it on as a big big audio signal to drive speakers.

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The most leading piece of guidance I can give to you is to buy lots of power. To get the cleanest sound, it is actually vital to buy as much power as you can afford.


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Here are some terms that you'll need to know when evaluating car audio amplifiers.

Watt: A watt is a measurment of power. Power is the potential to do work. In the case of amplifiers, the work is to move a speaker. Amplifiers come in all power ranges, from 20 watts per channel up to thousands per channel. When it comes to amplifiers, watts are described two ways:

Rms: An amp's power rating might say: 75W Rms x 4 Ch @ 4Ω 14.4V
This means that the amp is capable of 75 watts into 4 channels with 4 ohm speakers, and 14.4V of voltage. This amp is capable of providing that power if all of those conditions are met at all times. The truth is, even if you produce your theory to meet all of those conditions, it will not at all times. Speakers' impedences (measured in ohms, or Ω) change constantly while operating. Amps don't necessarilly put out the same power all of the time either, for example when a bass track is playing versus a much quieter track.

When Buying An Amp, Look At It'S Power Rating As A marker For Your Amp'S potential Rather Than What Is Likely To Put Out At All Times.

However, I must also say that an amp's Rms rating is the one piece of information to look for to conclude an amp's power.

Cea Compliant Power Output: This is (hopefully) going to become the manufactures suitable for determining an amp's power output. This allows you to accurately collate two amps to each other, because you know that they were tested under the same conditions. To know why this is a good thing, click here...

Max:
Right under an amp's Rms rating, you'll see an amp's "Max" rating. It is often duplicate the Rms rating. The Max rating is pure junk. Never pay attention to the max rating because it only shows what the amp is capable of in a laboratory setting. That kind of environment cannot be reproduced in the auto, and therefore the rating is misleading. An amp's max rating is proably about 50% more than the Rms. Never buy an amp based on it's Max rating. Ok, and lastly, because this makes you look like a total jerk, never ever ever say your amp is a 1000 watt amp because it has a max 1000 watt fastener on it, and Especially if you bought your amp at the swap meet. 1000 watt amps are Big and Heavy.

Anyway, in summation, never buy an amp based on it's Max rating.

Cea Compliant Power: (Cea=Consumer Electronics Association) This spec (if your amplifier includes it) is a new rating. The goals of this rating are to give a beneficial reference for amp comparison. In the "bad old days", amp manufacturers could pretty much claim whatever power production they wanted without specifying the testing methods. The Cea rating changes that. The Cea compliant power production specifies what power production you can expect when the following criteria are met: 14.4V, 4 Ohm speaker load and 1% distortion. You can now fairly collate two amplifiers to each other because you know they were tested in the same manner. Make sense? No? Ok, look at it this way: If an amp has a Cea compliant production power of 100 watts per channel, you know that the amp is essentially equal to other amp with the same Cea rating. However, you cannot collate this amp to other amp that is rated at 100 watts/channel Rms.

I am a big fan of this rating. Finally, there is a uniform suitable for amplifier power production ratings. If an amp doesn't contain this spec, then the builder is probably trying to hide something.

Bridging: Many stereo and 4 channel amps allow you to "bridge". What you do with bridging is concentrate two channels into one, or four channels into two. This allows you to allocate more power to a singular speaker, like a subwoofer for example. This is a handy feature for someone who has a stereo amp lying around, but they want to use all of its power to drive a singular speaker. There's nothing wrong with bridging, and is often used for subwoofers.

Crossover: Many amps have a simple crossover built in. Basically, it will be a switch that will have three positions: high pass, low pass, off. High pass basically allows all of the higher frequencies to pass. This is handy if the amp is powering tweeters and mids. The low pass allows only the lower frequencies to be reproduced. This is handy if the amp is powering a subwoofer. Off means that all frequencies will be sent to the speaker.

Bass Boost: Some amps have a circuit that when switched on gives a boost to your bass. It is not essential, and I ordinarily don't use it in my own system.

Frequency Response: This specification tells you what frequencies that the amp responds to. Higher frequencies are treble, lower frequencies are bass. The human ear can perceive from 20hz to 20,000hz (aka 20khz). Most amps will reproduce this frequency band with ease. Some will go above and beyond. Don't worry about that because ordinarily Cds don't contain data out of that range, and even if they did, you wouldn't hear it! Some habitancy talk about harmonics, and I don't know if it's true or not. But whateva. Read about this moot elsewhere.

Channel: Amps have channels that basically tell you how many loads it is built to drive. Loads=speakers, so a two channel amp will power two speakers.

Classes:

Different amps have separate designs that all perform the same thing (amplifying a musical signal), but perform this in separate ways. The way in which the amplifier is designed is refered to as its "class". There are 4 major types of classes, and an occasional oddball. I don't actually know the technical differences in the middle of them, but it doesn't matter. We're just installing amps, not designing them!

A - Very good sound quality, very inefficient, uses boatloads of power, and wastes most of it in the form of heat.

B - Good sound quality, moderately efficient, uses a lot of power, wastes about half of it in the form of heat. Some "crossover distortion" present

A/B - mixture of classes A and B. At low volumes, uses the class A quantum of the amp. At higher volumes, uses the class B quantum of the amp.

D - So-so sound potential (but reproduces bass very well), highly efficient, uses minimal power, wastes very miniature of it.

Other classes: Whatever. They exist. I don't know if they sound better. Your ears are the best judge.

Thd: This stands for "total harmonic distortion", but the D is all you have to pay attention to. Obviously, the lower this number, the better. You don't want your amps producing distortion and sending it to your speakers! It causes noise and speaker damage. The experts say any Thd rating below 0.1% is inaudible, meaning you can't perceive it. But remember that distortion travels through all components, and is amplified by each one. So, having a low distortion amp, and other high distortion items in your theory will reproduce distortion.

S/N Ratio: A quantum of how an amplifier silences backround noise. This spec is measured in db, and the Higher the s/n ratio, the cleaner your sound.

Speaker Level Inputs: This feature allows you to associate the amp to your theory through speaker wires (instead of Rca cables). This feature is handy if you're adding an amp to your factory stereo system.

Preamp Outputs: This feature allows you to associate an Rca cable to the amp to supply a second amp with the musical signal. This feature is handy if you want to add a second amp without running a cable all the way from your head unit to the amp. Also, it allows you to add an additional amp to a head unit that may have only one set of Rca pre-outs.

Remote bass control: This feature allows you to control the bass production of the amp without having to adjust it on the amp. You can mount the control wherever's clever, and adjust the bass remotely.

How To conclude Which Amp Is Best For Your System:

How many channels is your system?

How to hook up those channels.

Features you want

Crossover:

Inputs:

speaker (hi level)

rca, pre-amp (lo level)

How many channels are you going to drive? We already discussed the ranges of stereo systems, so you need to conclude how many speakers you're driving. Say you want to build an intermediate theory with 6 speakers. You shape you want to amplify all 6 of those with a "real" amp. You can go a few routes: You can buy a 6 channel amp, or a 5 channel amp, and power your whole system. That makes life easy if you want to keep factory clean and simple. You could also power your speakers with complicated amps: One mono, one 4-channel, you could even use three stereo amps. If you want to get actually fancy, you could bi-amp your component speakers, bringing your amp count to 3, 4, and 5 amps!

One way that you can get creative with your factory is through bridging. If you want to power 2 or more subs on a stereo amp, you can bridge it, or concentrate the two channels into one. From there, you can wire your subs in parallel or series to procure the allowable ohm load. It's an easy way to power complicated speakers on one amp.

To save money, you can always opt not to install an amp for the rear speakers. I often times just power them off of the head unit. If I am listening to music without rear passengers, I can just fade the head unit to the front, leaving me with the amplified front speakers.

Do you need an amp to have a crossover?

Crossovers come in handy when you are powering subwooers. Most amps can reproduce the entire range of human hearing. However, when we install subs, we only want them to reproduce bass. If the amp has a crossover, you can turn it on, and essentially tell the amp to only send bass to the subwoofers. Since subs can only reproduce bass, why have the amp waste vigor sending the subwoofers frequecies it can't reproduce? Lunacy I Tell Ya!

Inputs

speaker: These are called high-level inputs because the signal is already highly amplified. Get an amp with high-level inputs if you are integrating an amp with a factory head unit.

rca: These are called low-level inputs because the signal is not highly amplified. These inputs are Rca style, and are adored because they produce lower noise. This is the best option if you are using an aftermarket head unit.

So, now you're actually educated about amps. Don't worry. You can thank us later!

-Honest Aeb

Car Audio Amplifier Info: Seriously all things You'll Ever Need To Know


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Monday, July 25, 2011

Pioneer DEH-3300UB CD Receiver with iPod Direct Control and USB Input

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Sunday, July 24, 2011

Parrot Mk6000 Stereo Bluetooth Car Kit

Parrot Mk6000 Stereo Bluetooth Car Kit


Not one for long lonely drives? The Parrot Mk6000 stereo Bluetooth car kit will take away the humdrum from cruising, and associate you with your music and friends. The drive becomes "loaded" with music and friends without going afoul with the law.

This car tool weighs 1.38 lbs or 0.63 and is compatible with several movable phone brands that are Bluetooth enhanced. A professional car mechanic can do the premise of the kit in your car's dashboard. It takes up very little space authentically but gives a packed performance. You get all the music you can get with top capability audio coming from this little contraption.

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The Parrot Mk6000 stereo Bluetooth car kit is the first ever hands-free car kit for music. Bluetooth technology is a Swedish innovation that allows data and voice to be transferred via a short distance radio link. It hooks up with a wide range of electronic devices without the use of cables and wires.


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How does it work? The most recent signal processing technology makes the Parrot Mk6000 capable of playing Mp3 music uploaded via Bluetooth. The music is then directed to the car's speakers, loud and clear. As a tool for communications, the Bluetooth, makes it easy for you to call a estimate without resorting to one-hand driving. The Parrot phone book reads out the names and you prompt the Parrot with your choice. This voice synthesis technology is becoming a way of life for those on the road most of the time.

You can pair your Parrot Mk6000 with five connections simultaneously. When you talk on the phone, the expedient mutes all background noise and when the call is over, the music continues. With an iPod you can have a vast repertoire, so take it along. The iPod is compatible with the Parrot Mk6000 when it supports the Avr/Cp profile.

The microphones can be attached on the rear view mirror or on the dashboard for your convenience. These are equipped with "Parrot Beamforming®", noise reduction, and echo cancellation to filter out background noise for clear voice quality. The operate panel of the Parrot Mk6000 stereo Bluetooth car kit is user-friendly. With its 6-button user interface and one scroll knob, it is easy to navigate. When you want to adjust the settings on the Parrot Mk600, you still can combine on your driving because of its straightforward controls.

The Bluetooth technology of the Parrot Mk6000 has a range of about 10 meters, meaning you can hook up with the Parrot Mk6000 even when you are surface your car! The kit is inclusive of a one-year warranty, but does not include the QuicKconnect wiring harness - which can be bought separately for 0.

The drive won't be a trial. You've got your music, and you can stay in touch with family and friends at all times. Put an end to excess baggage and lonely night driving. The Parrot Mk6000 stereo makes it simple. To sum it up, the kit provides a liberating caress for citizen on the move.

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Saturday, July 23, 2011

Soundfly SD WMA/MP3 Player Car Fm Transmitter for SD Card, USB Stick, Mp3 Players (iPod, Zune)

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Soundfly SD lets you listen to sound files such as MP3 & WMA file stored in portable memory devices like USB flash memory & SD card, etc through your car radio speakers. It supports RDS (Radio Data System), so while listening to music, you can see the song and artist's name displayed on your car stereo. Soundfly SD transmits to all FM frequencies (88.1MHz-107.9MHz) and memorizes up to 7 FM frequencies. It comes with fully functional remote control. You can also transmit music from other Mp3 players such as iPod, Zune etc. Just plug USB or SD card in Sound-Fly & Enjoy music!

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Friday, July 22, 2011

Planning a Car Audio principles installation

Planning a Car Audio principles installation


With such a wide range of components and machine on the store for car audio systems, the big inquire is "Where do I start?"

First you must settle what exactly you wish to do. If you are wanting to build a car audio principles for a daily driver (the car you drive back and forth to work) with good sounds, but you are not curious in competing, a principles can genuinely be put together for under 00. However, if you are looking for the all-out bass monster, be ready to drop in some big bucks into your system.

Car Drive Cables Stereo

One of the most foremost things to keep in mind when building a car audio principles is planning. Get an idea of where you are going to place components, subwoofers, amplifiers, and power distribution. A lot of headache can be avoided with the proper planning!!

For the basic system, lets look at some of the components needed.

Let's first start with the head unit (Cd player). Obviously you are going to want a nice head unit. If you start with a good capability cd player, and choose to upgrade your sound principles in the future, purchase a head unit that will grow with you. Some of the features you may want to keep in mind are:

1. Cd changer controls

2. Xm / Sirius controls (if you settle to add Satellite radio in the future)

3. Dual Rca outputs (carries signal to the amplifiers)

4. Pause button (important for competing)

5. Removable face, or other security devices

6. High voltage line driver - this will send the sound signal at a higher voltage to your amplifier/s reducing noise and improving thorough sound quality.

After you have chosen your head unit, you will want to make a decision on amplifiers and subwoofers. Keep in mind that you get what you pay for. A subwoofer will be as big as a 0 subwoofer, but the capacities of each will differ greatly. Look at the power handling of each subwoofer and settle accordingly. You will want subwoofers will work with your amplifier/s (see compatibility).

You must also keep in mind the available space in your vehicle. Are you willing to give up your entire cargo area? How many subwoofers will fit? settle on the size. Sizes will vary from 8" up to 18", some are quadrate (Kicker), but most are round. Also keep in mind the resistance (ohms) of the subwoofer and make sure they are compatible with your amplifier/s (see compatibility). The subwoofer decision will also have an supervene on the enclosure you settle to build or buy. For the basic system, I would suggest purchasing a pre-fabricated subwoofer enclosure. This will save you a bit of money and headache (especially if you end up building it two or three times!!). Make sure you take spoton estimation of your cargo area before building or buying an enclosure!!

Other components may be needed depending on the type of principles you are building and how account for you want your sound to be. For the competition vehicle, frame on upgrading your alternator, adding a battery to your principles (maybe more), running high capability Rca cables, power cables, ground cables, and speaker cable. You may need to add a capacitor to supply your amplifier with a stockroom of power for bigger hits from the subs. You may need an electronic crossover, an equalizer, transfer facility speakers, an amplifier for your mid-range and tweeters, supplementary speakers within your vehicle for staging, etc.

For the next step, visit us online at
www.maximumspl.com
Warning: This is an addictive hobby!!

Planning a Car Audio principles installation


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